Taking care of your first ant colony!
Basic information Messor barbarus
Scientific name: Messor barbarus
Distribution area: Mediterranean, mainly Southern Europe
Difficulty level: 1.5/5
Queen size: 14-16mm
Worker size : 3-8mm
Soldier size: 8-15mm
Hibernation: early November-February at 15 degrees
Growth rate: 2/5
Temperature: 21-29 degrees
Optimal temperature : 25-27 degrees
Recommended nest type : ytong/acrylic
Diet: mainly seeds, insects, sugar liquids
Messor barbarus is a species in the Myrmicinae subfamily. They are also called the harvester ant because they are known to accept various types of seeds and grind them into a paste, which they then feed to the larvae and the queen. They are relatively easy-going and have few demands on their surroundings, making them an ideal species for patient beginners. However, they are sensitive to stress, particularly vibrations. So make sure they are placed in a quiet location (not next to a door, for example)
Contents of the starter set
– Messor Barbarus ant colony
A queen and a few first workers (nanitics)
– Cotton wool
To prepare a new test tube, for example, also handy to use a small piece to offer liquids (no risk of drowning)
– Anti-eruption set
A specially developed prevention to keep ants inside the outside world. Shake well before use!
– Feeding syringe
Handy for administering sugar water in small amounts.
– Test tube outside world
Outside world for the ants where they get food and take away waste.
– 5x test tube 16 x 150 mm
Extra test tubes, for expansion, and / or replacement if the current one is contaminated or the water reservoir is empty.
–
Seed mix 10 grams A specially composed seed mix for starting ant colonies.
– Sugar water , store in the refrigerator!
Liquid sugar water
– Fruit flies
Small test tube with fruit flies, it is best to store these in the freezer, then they will stay good for at least 3-4 weeks. – Moving supplies To be able to connect the colony to a new/clean test tube.
Setup with the starter set
First, you can connect the colony to the test tube outside. You can do this by folding the cotton pad in half lengthwise and wrapping it around the end of the piece of tubing. Then, push the piece of tubing with the wrapped cotton pad into the test tube. You can then connect the colony to the outside world. In the outside world, the colony can collect nutrients and dispose of its waste.
If necessary, apply a thin layer of anti-escape agent along the top edge of the outer chamber. This will allow you to open the lid at any time without any unexpected escapes. Note that this agent needs to dry (it will turn slightly white) before connecting it to the colony.
Offer food to ant colony
You can offer the colony various nutrients in the open air, such as seeds and a small insect, or some honey or sugar water, once or twice a week. Offer the colony new nutrients as needed.
Note: For a small ant colony, it's best to feed everything in small doses and remove excess food later. With liquids, even a tiny drop is enough for a small colony; any more and there's a risk of ants drowning. It's better to feed more often than too much at once!
Heating ant colony
We advise against heating an ant colony in a test tube with a heat mat or other heat source for beginners. If done incorrectly, the water reservoir in the test tube can overflow, drowning the colony. If the ant colony is large enough to fit inside an ant nest, it can be heated. In that case, heat a small portion of the ant nest with a heat mat or heating cable, placing it directly on the nest, not underneath it, as this can cause excessive condensation to form in the nest.
If you still want to heat a colony in a test tube, the best way to do this is with a heating cable. You do this by placing the cable at the beginning of the test tube and thus heating a small part.
Ant colony in hibernation
Early November is the time to begin hibernation. Colonies will also show less activity around this time, and the queen will lay fewer to no new eggs. Gradually reduce the temperature over a few weeks. For example, by removing the heating at night or moving the colony to a slightly cooler room in the house. Ultimately, the colony can be kept at 15 degrees Celsius until February. Make sure they are not in a dried-out test tube (for example, a test tube should not already be empty or moldy when they go into hibernation). If this is the case, first move the colony to a new test tube. Feeding will be minimal during this time; rest is important (checking once a week is more than enough). Possibly placing a few seeds outdoors can never hurt. For small colonies (under 30 workers), hibernation is not yet very important, so you can choose this yourself.
How do I move an ant colony?
Moving an ant colony is very important; you naturally want to ensure your ants' well-being. To move an ant colony, you'll need the T-piece connector and a test tube connector. Connect the colony to a new test tube and the outside world to the T-piece. The colony will then automatically move to the clean test tube, which can sometimes take a long time. If there's an emergency while moving the colony, for example, due to excessive mold on the cotton swab, an overflowing test tube, or an empty water reservoir, carefully transfer the colony to a clean test tube and then reconnect it to the normal setup.
When to expand to a nest and a larger outside world
If the colony grows too large for the test tube (this is when the test tube is very full of ants and you've given it maximum space), you can start by purchasing a nest and a larger outdoor world. You can find these products on our nest and outdoor world pages.
